When I used to eat animals, I always believed that French gastronomy could be divided into two kinds of dishes. There are those that embody creativity, precision, and a reverence for seasonality—like a rack of lamb with thyme jus and perfectly cooked asparagus, or a meticulously arranged spring salad with broad beans, baby fish, and fresh peas—the kind of dish Alain Ducasse might serve in Monaco.
Then, there are those that transcend trends and seasons. Timeless, irresistible, iconic. These are the dishes that appear the same year after year, beloved staples of French culinary heritage. Think quenelle de brochet, poulet aux morilles, île flottante, crème brûlée… Dishes that carry the weight of tradition and the comfort of memory.
So, when I set out to create a French vegan gastronomic restaurant—what Natalie Portman recently called “Haute French Vegan Cuisine” in her podcast—I knew I needed to reinvent those iconic dishes. Not just reinterpret them, but give them a new life, without compromise.
Enter our Crêpe Soho au Caviar de Plantes & Beurre Blanc—or Soho Pancakes with Kelp Caviar and Shallot Beurre Blanc. From the moment we created it, I knew it had all the qualities of a future classic. The soft, golden potato pancake; the silky, glistening beurre blanc infused with shallots; the briny, luxurious quenelle of kelp caviar. A touch of lemon zest over the top, and suddenly, there it is—France, in all its glory. Evocative, elegant, eternal.
And perhaps this is the beginning of a new tradition: the birth of truly iconic French vegan dishes—starting right here, with this one.
Here’s the recipe:
Ingredients (for 6–8 portions):
For the batter:
300 g starchy potatoes (e.g. Yukon Gold or Bintje), peeled
50g all-purpose flour
10 g cornstarch
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
200 ml unsweetened oat or soy milk (adjust as needed for consistency)
25 g vegan butter or neutral oil
pinch of nutmeg
For the vegan beurre blanc:
Ingredients:
• 2 small shallots, finely minced (about 60 g)
• 120 ml dry white wine (e.g., Sauvignon Blanc)
• 30 ml white wine vinegar or champagne vinegar
• 115 g cold vegan butter (cut into small cubes)
• 30 ml oat cream or soy cream (optional, for richness)
• ½ tsp sea salt (about 3 g), or to taste
• Pinch of ground white pepper
• A few drops of fresh lemon juice (about 2–3 ml)
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Instructions:
1. Reduce the aromatics:
In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the shallots, white wine, and vinegar. Simmer and reduce until only about 15–30 ml of liquid remains—this takes around 8–10 minutes.
2. Emulsify the butter:
Reduce heat to low. Begin whisking in the cold vegan butter, a few cubes at a time. Let each addition melt fully and emulsify into the sauce before adding more. Do not allow the sauce to boil.
3. Enrich and season:
Once all butter is incorporated and the sauce is glossy, stir in the oat cream (if using). Season with salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice to taste.
4. Strain (optional):
Strain through a fine sieve for a refined finish, or leave the shallots in for a more rustic presentation.
5. :Keep warm over a double boiler if necessary, but avoid reheating directly to prevent splitting.
Making of the Crepes:
1.
Prepare the potato purée:
Boil the peeled potatoes in salted water until fork-tender (about 15–20 min).
Drain and mash until completely smooth (no lumps). You should have about 200 g of purée.
Let it cool slightly before using.
2.
Make the batter:
In a large bowl, combine the mashed potatoes with the flour, cornstarch, salt, sugar, and baking powder.
Add plant milk gradually, whisking until smooth.
Stir in melted vegan butter and optional nutmeg.
Let the batter rest for 15–20 minutes.
3.
Cook the crêpes:
Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat and lightly oil it.
Pour in about 1/4 cup (60 ml) of batter, spreading gently (note: this batter is thicker than classic crêpe batter).
Cook 2–3 minutes per side until golden brown. Flip carefully—they are a bit delicate.
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