The Summer Menu Diaries- PART 1

From Watermelon Tartare to Mobutu’s Table

This is the first of many recipes I’ll be sharing here for everyone to enjoy. As our Summer menu comes to an end, I’ll be posting all the dishes we created, adapted, or transformed as part of our 2025 Summer lineup. Let’s begin with the canapés we served from June to September.

We started with a fresh, lemony compressed watermelon tartare — something that echoes the texture of red tuna. We served it in tiny cubes, delicately spooned with its seasoning. It was our way of introducing summer: bright red, refreshing, acidic, with subtle notes of ginger, lemongrass, and verbena.

Then came one of my favorite little puff parcels: the classic Barbajuan. I call it classic because, for me, it truly is. I’ve been eating these for years — in the South of France, they’re a staple starter. In Nice, they’re enjoyed year-round, usually stuffed with whatever greens the season brings. Sometimes with goat cheese or ricotta, but most often just a medley of greens. In summer, we’d add confit or dried tomatoes and a touch of olive paste.

When I was working in Monaco with Alain Ducasse, the Barbajuan took on an even more refined identity. It was something reserved for very special guests. Anyone invited to Alain Ducasse’s kitchen table had the privilege of tasting them. I remember one morning in particular, spending hours delicately preparing hundreds of Barbajuans for someone I was told was one of our most treasured guests. He adored Alain Ducasse’s cuisine and would always bring his family and closest friends whenever he visited the Côte d’Azur. Apparently, he was also the most generous guest, leaving stacks of 500-franc notes for the servers and often booking the entire dining room.

His name? Maréchal Mobutu.

I know… terrible!

SUMMER 2025

Here are the recipes:

CANAPE 1

Compressed Watermelon, Chilled Ginger & Lemongrass Consommé, Verbena Infused Oil

Ingredients (serves 4)

Compressed Watermelon

• Watermelon, seedless – 600 g (cut into 3 cm cubes)

• Lime juice – 20 g (≈ 2 cl)

• Agave syrup – 15 g (≈ 1 cl)

• Sea salt – 1 g

Ginger & Lemongrass Consommé

• Fresh ginger – 40 g, thinly sliced

• Lemongrass stalks – 30 g (trimmed, bruised, chopped)

• Kaffir lime leaf – 1 g (1 leaf)

• Water – 800 g (80 cl)

• Cane sugar – 10 g

• Lime juice – 20 g (≈ 2 cl)

• Sea salt – 2

Verbena Infused Oil

• Grapeseed oil – 80 g (≈ 8 cl)

• Fresh lemon verbena leaves – 8 g

Garnish

• Micro herbs (shiso, basil, or lemon balm) – a few sprigs

• Edible flowers – optional, 4–6 pieces

Method

1. Verbena Infused Oil

1. Warm the grape-seed oil gently to 50°C.

2. Add the lemon verbena leaves, cover, and infuse off heat for at least 2 hours.

3. Strain through a fine sieve or muslin. Reserve.

2. Ginger & Lemongrass Consommé

1. In a saucepan, combine water, ginger, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaf.

2. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat and infuse for 25 minutes.

3. Strain and season with cane sugar, lime juice, and sea salt.

4. Chill thoroughly in the refrigerator (at least 2 hours).

3. Compressed Watermelon

1. Mix lime juice, agave syrup, and sea salt to make a light marinade.

2. Toss watermelon cubes in the marinade, then vacuum seal in a bag.

3. Chill under vacuum for at least 2 hours (or use a heavy tray/weight if no vacuum machine).

CANAPE 2:

Barbajuan Provençal, Summer Garden Leaf Medley, Tapenade & Oregano

Ingredients (serves 4)

Barbajuan Dough

• All-purpose (or double00 Italian if you can) flour – 200 g

• Olive oil – 30 g (≈ 3 cl)

• Warm water – 80 g (≈ 8 cl)

• Fine sea salt – 3 g

Stuffing

• Summer garden leaf medley (chard, spinach, beet greens, rocket) – 180 g

• Black olive tapenade – 60 g

• Fresh oregano leaves – 4 g (or 1 tsp dried)

• Garlic – 5 g, finely grated

• Olive oil – 10 g (≈ 1 cl)

• Black pepper – 1 g

Frying

• Olive oil (or neutral frying oil with a splash of olive oil for aroma) – enough to deep-fry, ~800 g (≈ 80 cl)

Garnish

• Fleur de Sel & Plenty of Black Pepper

Method

1. Dough

1. In a bowl, mix flour and salt.

2. Add olive oil and warm water gradually, kneading until smooth and elastic (5–6 minutes).

3. Wrap in cling film and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

2. Stuffing

1. Heat olive oil in a pan, add garlic, and gently sauté until fragrant.

2. Add the garden leaves, cook briefly until just wilted, then drain and chop finely.

3. Mix with tapenade, oregano, and black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning.

4. Chill until ready to use.

3. Forming the Barbajans

1. Roll out the rested dough thinly (≈ 2 mm).

2. Cut into discs 8–10 cm diameter.

3. Place a spoonful (20 g) of stuffing in the center of each disc.

4. Fold into a half-moon shape, seal edges with a little water, and crimp firmly with a fork.

4. Frying

1. Heat frying oil to 170°C.

2. Fry barbajans in small batches until golden and crisp (2–3 minutes per side).

3. Drain on absorbent paper

   

   

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