SWISS CHARD

Sharing my winter barbajuan recipe- a savoury fried turnover deeply rooted in the tradition Niçoise!

Swiss chard thrives in winter, its sturdy leaves holding up beautifully to cooking, while the crisp, juicy stems offer a refreshing crunch and a clean, cucumber-like freshness. In Nice and its surrounding region, where chard is a cold-weather staple, it’s no surprise that this humble green takes centre stage in the iconic barbajuan—a savoury fried turnover deeply rooted in local tradition.

Barbajuans come in two seasonal variations: Summer and Winter. The winter version celebrates chard’s earthy sweetness, while the summer iteration skips the greens entirely, instead bursting with finely chopped fresh herbs folded raw into the filling for a bright, aromatic punch.

The true star, however, is the dough: La Pâte à Huile. This Ligurian-inspired pastry is luxuriously rich with olive oil, yielding a delicate, airy texture when fried. It crisps beautifully while retaining a tender bite, crumbling ever so slightly with each mouthful. This same dough forms the foundation of other regional specialties, like the traditional Ligurian herb tart—a recipe I’d love to share here soon (perhaps in time for Easter!).

Winter Barbajuan

Makes about 20-25 pieces

Dough Ingredients

• 2 cups (250g) all-purpose flour (but the best is the Italian 00)

• 6-8 tbsp (90g) water

• 2-4 tbsp (30gr)olive oil

• A pinch of salt

• A couple of drops of white wine vinegar (if you are going to keep the dough for more than 1 day- so it doesn’t turn dark)

Filling Ingredients

• 1 cup (150g) Spinach (pan fried cooked and squeezed dry)

• 1 cup (100g) Swiss chard (pan fried cooked and squeezed dry – I use both green and finely chopped stem)

• 1 small leek (white part only, finely chopped)

• 1 small onion (finely diced)

• 2 garlic cloves (minced)

• 1/2 cup (120g) Superstraccia from Julienne Bruno

• 1 tbsp fresh parsley (chopped)

• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

• Salt and black pepper to taste (the black pepper is key so don’t be shy to add a lot)

• Olive oil (for sautéing and for softening the stuffing)

For Frying

• Neutral oil (e.g., vegetable or sunflower oil)

Instructions

1. Prepare the Dough

   • In a bowl, mix flour and salt. Make a well in the center and add olive oil, water and vinegar

2. Gradually combine into a dough. Knead for 3 minutes until smooth. Wrap in cloth and rest for 30 minutes.

3. Make the Filling

   • Sauté veggies: Heat oil in a pan. Cook leek, onion, and garlic until soft. Add chopped chard/spinach and cook briefly.

   • Mix filling: Combine veggies when cold, superstraccia, herbs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Taste and make sure that there is plenty of black pepper. You might add some olive oil at this stage to make the stuffing softer and shinier.

3. Assemble the Barbajuan

   • Roll the dough thinly (1/8 inch or 3mm). Cut into 3-inch (8cm) circles.

   • Place 1 tsp filling in the center. Fold into half-moons, seal edges with water, and crimp with a fork.

4. Fry

   • Heat oil to 350–375°F (175–190°C). Fry barbajuan in batches for 2-3 minutes until golden. Drain on paper towels.

5. Serve

   • Enjoy warm with a sprinkle of fleur de sel and more black pepper.